"Standards of safety and hygiene would be developed and training undertaken through professional agencies. The identified and successful establishment would then be audited and certified to be of the required standards," it added.

"They would also be given a suitable symbol and monitored periodically," the statement said.

It is also proposed to bring out a directory of safe eating establishments to be distributed among the visitors.

"Training and capacity building would be undertaken by a panel of auditors and experts. Food samples would be tested periodically and a simplified standard will be developed against which the performance of the establishment will be evaluated," it added.

These eating establishments would be identified in food clusters, covering different types of cuisine in the city.

"An appropriate logo will be devised and the entire scheme implemented with the support of the Food Safety and Standards Authority of India," the ministry said.

The government plans to undertake similar schemes in other cities to improve safety and hygiene of eating establishments.

Well-travelled and discerning, diners are opting for foreign favourites--sushi to caviar--with a slew of high-end restaurants pulling out all the stops for them.

One important footnote: if you fancy a flutter on the food front, the wallet wallop is well worth the experience.

ORIENT EXPRESS, TAJ PALACE
This 25-year-old restaurant is modelled on the train that travelled through Europe.

A near replica, it recreates a world that perhaps even Europe has forgotten--regulars have monogrammed napkins; women diners are handed pashmina shawls to keep warm while men are offered spectacles to read the menu.

For the shamelessly rich, there is Beluga caviar at Rs 9,500 for 30g and Kobe steak (flown in from Japan) for Rs 7,500.

Must Try: Escalope of duck foie gras

DUM PUKHT, ITC MAURYA SHERATON
Dum Pukht serves centuries-old Awadhi cuisine, steamed to retain flavours. The prize dishes are the Jhinga Dum Nisha and Raane-Dumpukht (both Rs 1,900).

The Chateau Petrus Grand Vin de Pomerol 1996 is an eye-popping Rs 99,000 and 30 ml of The Lady Burn whisky costs Rs 4,500.

Must Try: Dudiya Kabab, Murgh Chandi Tikka
and Guchhi pulao

TRAVERTINO, THE OBEROI
The sleek and modern decor is suitably low-key for the suave set. Ingredients are mostly sourced from Italy.

If you feel generous, order the grilled tenderloin or pan-seared seabass (both Rs 1,975). Wash it down with Sori's Lorenzo langhe at Rs 25,000.

Dip some crusty Italian bread in the extra virgin olive oil on vinegar, and come out smiling.

Must Try: Calamarte with lobster

SAKURA, THE METROPOLITAN
Discreet and understated, India's first Japanese eatery, Sakura, is a real high-street classic.

And that's well reflected in its Kaiseki cuisine-- traditional seven-to-nine course Japanese meal--prepared by celebrated chef, Nariyoshi Nakamura, with dry fish and meat flown in from Japan.

The Wagyu Steak costs Rs 4,500 and the Sushi Moriawase Rs 1,900. Sip on Kikumasamune Taru sake for Rs 1,650 to wash down your fears about the bill.

Must Try: Nigiri Sushi Kaiseki and Unajyu

SAN GIMIGNANO, THE IMPERIAL
Inspired by the medieval town of San Gimignano in Tuscany, the eatery keeps its authenticity by importing balsamic vinegar, cheese, pasta and olive oil.

Must Try: The restaurant is known for its Italian wines, especially the Vernaccia de San Gimignano.

Not long ago, the people of East Delhi had very limited options for eating out. Now, these options have increased with several restaurants, restobars, etc coming up in the area. Also fast food chains like Nirula's, McDonald's, Pizza Hut, Dominos, etc, have also opened their outlets here. Their free home delivery service also saves the people from driving to these outlets after a long and tiring day .

The numerous malls in the area have well-furnished food courts. Here cuisine from different states can be found. In fact, each member of a family can order food of their choice. Moreover, the service in the food courts in malls is prompt. So much so that sometimes eating at a food court in a mall can be a different experience in itself.

And the story is the same across the city. While the Capital boasts more than 1,500 takeaway joints, barely 60 of them have health licences issued by the Municipal Corporation of Delhi.When Times City looked into some of the kitchens, the look was that of a space which has not been cleaned for days. In many of them, the trash cans were kept right next to the cooking utensils, the vegetables and meat left uncovered on dirty slabs, flies and other insects swarming on them. The cooks wore neither gloves nor headgear and didn't bother to wash their hands even when they got dirty. Shortage of water often meant many utensils being washed in water already filthy with repeated use. With no proper ventilation or fire extinguisher in place, it would be safe to say the joints are dangerous in more ways than one.

Most of the takeways function from small non-descript corners as customers place their orders on phone instead of actually coming to pick up the food. Said an MCD official: ``The licences of takeaways are issued at the zonal level. The basic requirement to open a takeaway is that the person opening it should have ownership proof and it should be functioning from a commercial area. No unauthorised construction should be carried out and the minimum size of the takeaway joint should be 100 sq ft, with no sitting place.''

The chain introduced the aloo grill burger (grilled potato burger) and cheese onion tomato pizza priced respectively at Rs 19 and Rs 69, without taxes.

The chain also introduced the omelette burger and the double cheese pizza besides re-introducing their `daal with naan' (Pulse and Bread) platter along with `aloo paratha' (stuffed Indian flat bread) with yoghurt and pickle.

"We plan to open 30 more outlets in 2008-09. We have a target to reach and I hope we do so," said senior vice-president marketing and sales Sudipta Sen Gupta

The first day of the event saw visitors thronging the fair throughout the day to get a taste of Dilli ka Khana. From Old Delhi's famous paranthas to the mouth-watering jalebis, chaats and pakodas, the food festival was a hit with all age groups. Neena Malhotra, a visitor from Hauz Khas, who had come to Dilli Haat with her two children, said: ``Going all the way to Chandni Chowk to taste the food is not always feasible. However, Dilli Haat is more centrally located and festivals like these keep the spirit of the city soaring.''

Today, the Capital has its own Mini Tibet in the form settlements such as Majnu ka Tila (popularly known as MT) and Ladakh Budh Vihar. The first sight when a Delhiite or a Delhi University student enters Majnu ka Tila - a group of Tibetan teenagers perpetually striking their fingers at a carrom board, slurping at noodles from a bowl of steaming hot thukpa. As one walks past, it is quite impossible to ignore the aroma of fresh Tibetan food that fills the air from the restaurants. They serve the ethnic cuisine from the Himalayan Country.

Tibetans, foreigners and Delhiites sharing a tables is a common sight, sometimes leading to interesting conversations between strangers over a plate of momos.

"Most of the people do not mind sharing a table with strangers as long as they get to enjoy their meal. By the time the meal is over, most exchange email addresses and phone numbers," said Dechen Dolkar, from Sakya House in Majnu ka Tila.

A sentiment echoed by youngsters across the city. ``Pandara Road is a safe family eating place. But if I want to let my hair down with a group of close friends, I'd rather go elsewhere at Pandara, I'll almost certainly bump into family or relatives,'' says Ekta Sharma, a BPO employee.

Another PYT swearing off the famous food street is Gunjan Bhalla. ``Oh, I wish I could go back to the days when Pandara Road was my stairway to culinary heaven. Today, it's the fast track to calorie hell. With my gym instructor giving me a hard time, there's no way I can even dream of frequenting the restaurants on Pandara. Thank God other eateries will be open till late,'' she says.

"The tenders have already been awarded for the Media Coffee Home and the contractor will start operating it by this month-end. A catering company will start the coffee home under the banner `Cool All', and focus on health food, salads, sprouts, fruits and so on. No cooking will be allowed here as per fire safety norms, so packed food will be microwaved and served," said Jagat Singh, Chief Manager, Catering, Delhi Tourism & Transportation Development Corporation (DTTDC).

Swarn Kumar, who works in one of the newspaper offices housed at ITO, is quite pleased with the plan. "It's actually long overdue. There is no decent place to eat out here except Udupi, but just how much South indian food can you eat. A change of menu would be welcomed," says Swarn.

Many like UK brand Dixy Chicken and pizza outlet Papa John's made their foray recently, Cinnabon and Barnie's, Taco Maker (Mexican foods) will open their first store this year and a host of other brands, including SumoSalad and Panda Express, are scouting for local partners to tempt the Indian palate.

And they all have big plans for India. Dixy Chicken, which had announced its India entry plans in '04, will finally open its first outlet in Chennai this month. It has 100 stores planned across the country to begin with.

The US-based bakery chain Cinnabon, famous for its cinnamon rolls and other cinnamon-based food items, has been brought to India by entrepreneur Harmanjit Singh. Mr Singh's companies' hold master franchise rights for US coffee brand Barnie's Coffee and Tea Co and Mexican food chain Taco Maker in India.

"We will definitely open the first Cinnabon store in India this year, while the first Barnie's outlet will be opened in June in Noida," said Ravish Mehra, director, Victoria Impex, Barnie's master franchisee in India.

The US pizza chain Papa John's has a 100 store development deal for northern India. It has already opened its first store in Delhi. The UK coffee brand Gloria Jean's plans to open the first of its planned 300 outlets by September '06.

According to industry sources, food retail brands like Pita Pazzaz, Candy Bouquet, Carvel Ice Cream, Pizzas Of 8, Cinnamonster, Java Jo'z, Jumpin' Juice & Java, Big Apple Bagels, Maui Wowi Hawaiian, Blimpie, Chesters, Figaro Pizza and Hungry Howie's Pizza are scouting for master franchisees in India.

Executives from US chain Church's Chicken were in India six months ago, while Australian food retailer SumoSalad, known for its soups, salads and wraps, and US-based Chinese food chain Panda Express are also keenly looking at India, say sources.

Indian players are also looking at bringing in Indonesian, Thai and Malaysian food and beverage retail brands to India. "I think it is the cheap franchise fee that one would have to pay for getting such brands to India, which is making people consider the option.

There are hardly any Asian F&B brands with the kind of support system and the experience of adapting to different geographies that most US and UK brands possess," said Gaurav Marya, president, Franchise India Holdings.

Well, one is talking here of Sher-e-Punjab Dhaba, a Punjabi food festival being held at Tasveer restaurant of Gourmet Gallery in New Delhi's South Extension. The festival not only brings alive the taste of Punjab through its wide assortment of food but also the spirit is visible in the carefully crafted décor. The charpai, chhaj, scarecrow and sugarcanes at the entrance makes you feel as if you are entering a typical Punjabi household. The laltein-adorned ceilings, the Phulkari embroidery, chhappar style curtains, such a rustic ambience act as the perfect milieu for this festival. There is a separate enclosure displaying a burning tandoor too. The menu also comes as a creative surprise as it is attached with mathni. To complete the effect, the male staff is dressed in traditional pathani suits. "Our main motto is to make people feel the environment of Punjab," , says Dimple Kohli, the Business Head of Gourmet Gallery.

Dishes like the pindi chana, tandoori machi, tandoor meat champen and special thalis with a traditional glass of lassi,. Amritsari kulcha (with stuffed dry-fruits) served hot and tave da phulka lend a homely touch to the menu.

Non-vegetarians can bite into tandoori machhi, Amritsari machhi tikka, tamatar wali machhi, gurde, kapoore, kalejee keema marke etc. In the dessert section named Moonh Mitha Karo Ji, items kesar wale meethe chawal, phirni and moong dal halwa are main attractions.

When I was a gangly youth, quite a few moons ago, Moti Mahal was one of the restaurants that we haunted.

We used to go there for its tandoori chicken, which was easily the best in town. We'd sit out in the open and listen to the famed qawwal, Habib Painter, while we attacked the late and unlamented fowl.

I went back there after some three decades and found that the place hadn't changed much. We still sat in the open and ate tandoori chicken. And though I missed Habib Painter, there was a singer on a dais near us with his entourage. And, like the old times, music rent the air as we happily gnawed our chicken.

This was just a few days ago. Our friend, Amita, had wanted to take us out. For a couple of reasons (one of which was that her visiting brother wanted to eat those pink-tinged, vinegar-soaked onions), we landed up at Moti Mahal in Darya Ganj.

We parked our car in a small enclosure on the other side of the road, followed the strains of a sad ghazal and took a table in the open. We were the first to arrive. It's bad manners to reach anywhere before your hosts, so we decided to make our discomfort known to her by ordering, and quickly demolishing, a plate of kalmi kababs.

Moti Mahal is really quite a nice place for a loud dinner.

Interesting ambience

The ambience, I thought, was interesting. It's quite a treat to be able to sit out in the open in concrete Delhi. And the food was rather good.

We ate a lot. Apart from the kalmi kababs (Rs.150), we had a plate of tandoori chicken (Rs.170), saag paneer (Rs.90), kali daal (Rs.60) and butter chicken (Rs.265). Legend has it that it was the Moti Mahal that first stumbled upon the butter chicken. Its chefs, wondering what to do with left-over tandoori chicken, bunged it into a rich gravy of tomatoes, butter, cream and spices. And, the butter chicken was thus born.

Though I have strong views on the butter chicken, I was pleasantly surprised when I had a mouthful.

The chicken was soft, and the gravy wasn't sour, as a butter chicken gravy can often be. Instead, it was sweetish, yet tart. We had our food with assorted rotis and paranthas.

We had a great time. The kulfi, studded with nuts, was excellent. The weather was pleasant, and the food was good. And, what was even better was that we weren't paying!

The other day, I was reading a food column in a newspaper whose circulation is in inverse proportion to its cerebral content and sniggering to myself. The column was going gaga about an elaborate buffet in a five-star hotel. There was a huge spread, by the sound of it a 700-item lunch, and it cost the same as a train ticket from Delhi to Goa. I found that hilarious - even if you have one bite out of each dish, you'd be nursing an aching jaw by the end of the meal. But what's actually funny is that Old Delhi is dotted with bhojanalayas that serve a great unlimited lunch, and very few people know about it. You pay just Rs.25 to 50 for an unlimited vegetarian thali, and the food is so much tastier than anything you get in a tony hotel.

One such place is the Adarsh Bhojanalaya. Adarsh has been a pit stop for food-loving traders for a long time. Most of the outstation traders and shopkeepers who come to Delhi for bulk purchases visit Adarsh for lunch. And those catching the late night train back home halt there for dinner. Adarsh is a neat little place in Haveli Haider Quli. You can take the Metro to the Old Delhi Railway Station and then take a rickshaw to Haveli Haider Quli, or walk down Chandni Chowk towards Fatehpuri. Haveli Haider Quli is the last gali on your right before you hit Fatehpuri. You take a chair and order a thali. And you ask for a katori of desi ghee. The ghee is heated and tempered with jeera. And you pour this over your dal and sabzi. It makes the food taste so good that you are tempted to sprinkle it over your raita and kheer, too. But don't.

Attentive gentlemen

The thali consists of a dal, a few vegetable dishes, raita, chutney, salad, kheer and papad. A gentleman stands there with a tray carrying different kinds of rotis - plain or missi, or paranthas if you want them. The rotis are done on the tawa, so they are soft and tempt you to eat even more than you wish to. Another gentleman keeps refilling all your katoris till you surrender and cross your hands over the thali to indicate a stomach that's about to burst. The food is really great - simple yet delicious.

The only problem with Adarsh is that once you have gone there, you want to keep going back for more. I made the mistake, many years ago, of taking to Chandni Chowk some of my snooty friends who otherwise yelp in fright when they see a cow on the road.

They had lunch at Adarsh. And they are still talking about it.

Walk into any wedding, party or social occasion and you will see huge tables groaning under an astonishing array of mouthwatering - and sometimes nose-watering too - dishes emanating exquisite aromas and fragrance. Usually, in the Delhi social scene, a perfunctory `hello' is followed by the hostess indicating to the guest where the food has been laid; just what the guest had been too polite to ask himself but was, of course, dying to know.
An indifferent table is social suicide. On the other hand, feed a Delhiite well and you've got a friend for life; on a full stomach he will give you even unto half his kingdom. And what's more, being a thorough generous live-for-today Delhite, won't even regret it the morning after.
Perhaps that is why Delhi is the restaurant capital of India, just like Bombay and Bangalore are the discotheque and pub hubs respectively. The city is crawling with restaurants of all variety, nationality and vintage.

The Rule of Successive Dynasties Brought Diverse Cuisine In The Capital

Over the centuries, Delhi has changed hands, and hence personalities, umpteen times. She has been variously Rajput, Arab, Afghan, Mongol (Mughal), and English. The vivacious eat-well-drink-well Punjabis came to the city with literally nothing, having left everything behind, in what used to be home, in Pakistan when the partition happened. However in an amazingly short span of time they bounced back with their lives and careers back on track.

The Punjabi Cuisine

The Punjabis love to experiment and try everything, there is a veritable splash of cuisines you can sample. Thai, Lebanese, Chinese, Israeli, Italian, Indonesian, Spanish, Mexican, French, Moroccan, Swiss and much, much more of the local Indian stuff. What the Delhites don't like, they amend. Like the famous Indian-Chinese, which is a Delhi product.

`Going out' in Delhi is usually associated with food. However that was not always so. Not very long ago, in fact right into the fabulous forties till before the coming of the Punjabis, orthodox Hindus in Delhi would not eat food cooked outside the home, dismissing it as `unclean'. Reading between the lines this meant they were not sure about the caste of the cook - Brahminist squeamishness, which was followed by a surprising aggressiveness by non-Brahmins castes like the kshtriyas, kayasthas and so on.

All that stopped very abruptly when one enterprising family of fleeing Punjabis from the Partition holocaust set up shop as a Tandoori (Punjabi-Mughal cuisine) eatery in the old City, near the Red Fort.

And boy, did they clean up! Tandoori food, rich and succulent, cooked in hot clay ovens was an immediate box-office hit that set the cash registers ringing permanently. Today the standard menu at any Delhi restaurant takes in a fair share of Tandoori dishes, while also giving the nod to the more delicate (and difficult to make) Mughlai dishes like pilafs and kormas.

Mughali Regins In Chandni Chowk

However, to eat Mughlai cuisine like mother makes it there's still no place like the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan's city, now called the Old Delhi. At places like the now almost legendary Karim's and Babu Khan's near Jama Masjid, Kallu's Halim near Gali Chitli Qabar and Nalli Nahari in Beradari, beyond Ballimaran, the art of making Mughlai food is just like it was in the good old days of the emperors. The reason for this is that most of the families who own these restaurants in Old Delhi are descendants of the royal cooks who used to serve in the kitchens of the Mughal emperors. They take fierce pride in having successfully preserved the culture of the Mughlai cuisine in face of the Tandoori onslaught.

Interesting Stories Behind The Creation of New Dishes

There are stories attached to most places and food in the city. Like the nahiri, a delicate beef stew which is painstakingly prepared overnight and served just-so now at Nali Nahiri and such places. Apparently during the reign of Shah Jahan, Delhi's water supply came from a canal in the middle of Chandini Chowk. The water of this canal became suspect for some reason so the doctors (hakims, in those times) got together and came up with a recipe for a beef stew with lots of red chilies which were supposed to have germ-killing properties. Whether that worked or not is not known, but we can tell the nahiri sure did. It is still a very popular dish in Delhi and other cities of Northern India, like Lucknow and Kanpur.
Chandini Chowk is still revered as the best place to sample foods from the Mughlai cuisine, be it main course dishes, sweets or snacks. In teeth of fierce competition from the fast-food brigade Chandini Chowk has managed to hang on tenaciously and determinedly to that unique charm from another era.

Chandini Chowk- An Age Old Wholesale Market

Most of the shops in Chandini Chowk date from the previous century, and some, like the Ghantewala Halwai, are even older. Almost all the shops have been handed down from father to son and many of these businesses are now being managed by the fourth or fifth generation.

Chandini Chowk's merchants take fierce pride in their trade and wares, hence quality is of the essence. Some of them would even go to the pains of grinding their own spices rather than trusting shop-bought masalas (mixtures of various spices). Most of the shops have their own (very) secret recipes (guarded like family heirlooms, no less). This makes it very interesting for the gourmet as no two places providing the same fare will have preparations that taste just the same.

Bazaar - The Traditional Eating Joint Of Delhi

The market has over the centuries become a little cramped for space and you might have to end up standing if you are planning to sample some of the exquisite stuff the eateries here offer.

Turn a corner here and you will reach the Paranthewali Gali. The layered parantha - a type of bread fried on a griddle and made without yeast - is said to have been officially brought to Delhi by the Punjabis, but unofficially it had been eaten in Delhi for ages. Evidence of this is simply the existence of the Mughlai parantha - layered fried bread with eggs, and sometimes chicken and mutton, folded into it which used to be served to Mughal emperors. The Paranthewali Gali boasts of three families here who have been involved in the art of turning out paranthas as they should be and selling them for generations.

The Speciality of Ghantewala

The oldest sweet shop in Delhi is the Ghantewala in Chandini Chowk, which went into business in 1790. Down the centuries, it has remained in the same family and is now in the hands of the eleventh generation. There's an interesting story behind how it got its name, Ghanta actually means a big clanging bell in Hindi. Legend goes that whenever the royal procession moved down this road, the emperor was in the habit of stopping here for a snack - a habit that his elephant acquired too. Well, we all know how passionately fond of sweets elephants are, so of course came the day when he found the way to the shop himself. Apparently he refused to budge and kept on shaking its head until people rallied around with assorted sweets. The bells hanging from the elephant's neck would tinkle whenever the animal went into stubborn mode and shook his head. And from there came the shop's name - beat that! The Ghantewala Halwai is celebrated for its sohanhalwa, a sweet made from dry fruits, sprouts and sugar.

There is another Ghantewalah Shahi Halwai, now near the famous fountain in Old Delhi. It is owned by a part of the same family, which branched out somewhere down the line. This shop also does roaring business with its dry fruit, sohanhalwa, barfis and namkeens.

Chandini Chowk is justly famous for its chaat: a quintessentially Indian spicy snack with various ingredients, laced with lots of sauces. In shops like Natraj's Dahi Bhale (almost legendary for its chaat) and Chaatwallah you can still bange on some of the best chaat in Delhi.

Snacks Specialty

Want to carry home a taste of India? Take back salty snacks or namkeens from places like Haldiram's or Bikaner's in Chandini Chowk. Mithais or sweets spoil easily and are usually good for a day or so only. While here you can, of course, try exquisite imratis (a syrup-filled delicacy) at Kanwarji's, rasmalai (a sweet made from milk and cream) at Bikaner's and for Bengali sweets you just can't beat Haldiram's.

The Cooler Delicacies

Doing this Chandini-Chowk-Food-trail in the summer months is really, uh, not exactly the best way to go around it. But the good news is that there's lots of stuff to help you cool-off. After all Indians have been living in these conditions longer than anyone else, so they've perfected combat techniques for the heat.

After a hot walk you will find a traditional almond squash known as thandai, (available at Haldiram's) tremendously refreshing. Or you can chill out with the rabri falooda (milk starch and rice noodles served with crushed ice), at Gianiji ka Falooda. By the way, you needn't worry about the water they use for making ice - these guys are extremely particular and manufacture it from filtered water.

A Gourmet's Scrumble-Jumble

Mughlai Specialty

Now coming down to today after the medieval charms of Chandini Chowk.

Most five-star hotels offer excellent Mughlai-Tandoori-Frontier cuisine. Especially Bukhara in Maurya Sheraton where you can rub shoulders with any celebrity worth his/her name, including Hillary and Chelsea Clinton who pronounced its food as one of the best they had tasted. For Punjabi - Mughlai food the places to head for are the restaurants in Pandara Road Market, Karol Bagh and Connaught Place. Pindi and Gulati on Pandara Road and Kake da Hotel in Connaught Place have a large following, who flock to them almost every night. Mostly after dinner - didn't we tell you that Delhiites eat too much!

The Vegetarian Joints

The hunt for a really good vegetarian joint in Delhi might be an eye-opener for all of you who think India is more vegetarian than thou. Traditional vegetarian food can best be tasted in the homes of Delhi's people. No restaurant in Delhi offers the variety and quality of vegetarian food that can even hope to match home-cooked food. There are some places which offer Marwari food, like Brijbasi at Katra Neel but, really, they are so far out that even old Delhiites will scratch their heads if asked about there whereabouts.

Mostly restaurants tend to exist on the assumption that cottage cheese and lentils smothered in cream and butter is all there is to vegetarian cuisine, which of course is quite untrue. The humble cottage cheese is laced with names like paneer-do piaza, paneer makhani, paneer pasanda and shahi paneer, but don't be surprised if they all taste the same.

Cholle bhature is the grand Punjabi favourite and everybody who comes to Delhi eats it at least once. One of the best places offering cholle bhature is Kwality in Connaught Place. Another Delhi staple is rajma-chawal, red kidney beans cooked with spices and tomatoes and served with rice. But no restaurant can make it quite like it's done at home.

Street Food Has Its Own Charm

Street food is the grand old tradition in Delhi from the times when khomchewallahs (street vendors) used to come to one's doorstep to sell all kinds of snacks, chaats, ice creams, sweets and so on. The munchies you can buy off the streets vary with the season. It's fresh roasted bhuttes (corn) in the rains, peanuts and popcorn in winter and various roasted gram in summer. You can also buy assorted pakores (patties), patties, sandwiches and even the local version of a burger off these vendors.

International Cuisine In Delhi

For those who want it, international cuisine is marks its presence in places like the Orient Express at the Taj Palace. Italian and Tex-Mex food, perhaps because of its affinity to Indian food, is very popular in Delhi and there are some very good joints like Flavors (owned by an Italian) and Rodeo. Of course as far as five-star hotels are concerned you can have any cuisine from Thai to Spanish to Indonesian to Greek.

All's well that ends in sweets

Go anywhere in Delhi there's no escaping the omnipresent sweet shop. The Punjabi and Mughlai sweets are rather in-your-face but those who like their sweets delicate might prefer the Bengali variety. No one can beat Annapoorna, the oldest authentic Bengali sweet shop in Delhi, which has outlets in Green Park and Chittaranjan Park. Other good mithai outlets are Kaleva in Gole Market, Nathu's and Bengali Sweets in Bengali Market.

Kulfi Specialty--An Indian Ice-cream

And if you haven't tried the typical Delhi kulfi, you haven't lived. It's a solid chunk of thickened milk, topped with saffron, cardamom and nuts, which is eaten with falooda (rice noodles). When the mixture of the noodle, nuts and frozen milk explodes in your mouth, it's really something else. Roshan di kulfi on Ajmal Khan Road in Karol Bagh is an excellent place for beginners.

Excellent Confectioneries

For those who prefer to stick to their cakes, pies and minces, Delhi has a host of excellent confectioneries. Wenger's in Connaught Place (revered for its chocolate cake), Sugar & Spice and Nirula's with branches in different localities are among the best going.

Pan -- Indian Mouth Freshener

The Indian meal is usually rounded off with paan, which is folded betel leaf with a filling of areca nuts, lime and extras like cardamom, clove, nutmeg and grated coconut. The paan is said to have strong digestive properties. Stories of other more erotic effects are however told by traditional paanwallahs who have been in the business for generations. For a price, they might still mix together various spices to weave the same magic that it was supposed to have created in the days of the Kamasutra (the traditional Indian treatise on sex) where it is recommended as an aphrodisiac.

Relishing Invitations

The people of Delhi are generous. Chances are you will be invited to more lunches and dinners than you know what to do with. Delhites like to stuff you, so if you are on a diet put it on temporary hold.. After all, the one thing you can count on in the Delhi lunch-dinner scene is great food. And what the hell, there's always paan.

The Dhabas-- Traditional Open Air Restaurants

A small boy in vest and shorts comes and slaps water on to the rickety table. You already know the menu of the day, but ask anyway - for the sheer pleasure of listening to it, plus there's lots of time to kill. This is Delhi for god's sake; time not spent in decades is not worth measuring. The boy rattles off without pausing for breath: 'muttarpulaoshahipaneerzindadaal...'
Ask any Delhite about eating out and with a wistful gleam in his eye he'll tell you that there's nothing quite like the dhaba. These roadside food joints are very much a fixture on the Delhi restaurant scene. Originally dhabas were located on major highways, where they were supposed to cater to truck drivers on long distance travels. But frankly, almost everybody haunts them for good, cheap food. For example the Express dhaba near the Indian Express building on Bhadurshah Zafar Marg (India's Fleet Street) is a popular hangout with media persons, including big names like Aroon Purie and theatre actors.

People from `fine' families still shudder at the thought of actually going and eating in a dhaba, but no one has any qualms about ordering take-out meals from there. The reason for their popularity is simple: these modest `restaurants' turn out surprisingly good Punjabi food and the advantage is that it is fresh and cheap. With time, the dhabas have gone hip and now also include `buttertoast', sandwiches, fries, Chinese food and much more, though of course they are still best at Punjabi cuisine. So if you can overlook the rather shabby surroundings, the dhaba is a very much a good-deal food outlet in Delhi.